Touring the Coast of Brittany

After enduring a blistering summer in Europe, David and I took advantage of some cooler days in early September for a much-needed getaway to explore the coastal regions of Brittany. We had previously discounted the area as a possible location for our future country house but after the heat of the last few years, the cool and rainy climate has become more appealing. Taking the train from Paris Montparnasse station to Rennes took only an hour and a half, and we picked up a rental car right at the station. Rennes is located in the Ille-et-Vilane department (similar to a county) and we headed northwest to the Paimpol area of the Côtes-d’Armor. I had worked out an itinerary that took us in a counterclockwise route around most of Brittany. The map will help you follow along on the beauty-packed, carb-laden journey!

HYDRANGEA FIELDS

Our first destination, and one I had been looking forward to greatly, featured the seaside hydrangea fields at Sainte-Barbe. These are commercial fields that are awash in blue and purple in July. I had planned to come at their peak but July brought successive heat waves, deterring travel, and also caused the flowers to wither prematurely to a deep burgundy. Nevertheless, and knowing that they would not be looking their best, I wanted to see them and plan next year’s visit. 

The dramatic location overlooking the sea was breathtaking. I have seen fabulous drone footage taken from above which is what drew me to the fields initially. Although  private property, respectful walking along the paths is acceptable.

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ABBAYE DE BEAUPORT

Just a few minutes from the hydrangea fields is the Abbaye de Beauport, an atmospheric ruin at the sea’s edge. Images of it had captivated me and we greatly enjoyed exploring the roofless rooms, despite a sudden rain shower and unexpected crowds.

Again, the hydrangeas were past their peak but lent a faded elegance to the scene. A treat to come will be revisiting the location next summer when the blooms have newly opened.

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A short drive brought us to the Manoir de Kergrec’h, our hotel for the night. Perched on a small headland, the restored chateau featured extensive, peaceful grounds for walking and savoring the welcome and invigorating sea breezes.

We dined at the nearby Café Pesked in Plouguiel, known for its ultra-fresh local seafood. Exceptional fish and chips, an excellent white wine and a view over the quaint harbor contributed to a very memorable evening.

Brittany is one of the ancient Celtic realms and the white croft-like houses are very reminiscent of those in both Scotland and Cornwall, themselves Celtic strongholds.

NANTOUAR

Following a blissfully quiet night and morning, punctuated only by soft wind and birdsong, we set upon a relaxing drive to Nantouar and its diminutive lighthouse perched on the shore. Brittany offers such charming scenes literally around each bend in the road.

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FINISTÈRE

Leaving the western border of the Côte-d’Armor, we entered the department of Finistère, which means “end of the earth” or “edge of the earth”, from the Latin finis terrae. Our destinations were two spectacular beaches on the north shore.

PLAGE DU POULDU AT SANTEC

The Plage (beach) du Pouldu is an expanse of idyllic, sheltered shoreline, easily accessible and, on this day, nearly deserted. Bleached shells are plentiful and we collected pretty specimens as souvenirs.

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PLAGE DES AMIETS

Near the top of my list was the exquisite Plage des Amiets, known for its soft, pristine white sands and jewel-toned waters. We were truly blessed to have a clear, warm day with a caressing breeze. Strolling nearly the entirety of the lengthy shore, splashing in and out of the sun-warmed shallows, collecting rocks and shells provided unforgettable hours of pure joy and exhilaration.

Not being focused on photography, I feel I didn’t adequately capture the stunning majesty of this enchanting beach, which quickly has become one of my all time favorites. But do an internet search for Plage des Amiets, and you’ll be rewarded with images of its magic, tranquility and turquoise waters.

With wistful reluctance, we left this sliver of heaven but will eagerly return.

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THE CROZON PENINSULA

We’d rented a cottage in Lanvéoc on the Crozon Peninsula for the night so ventured south, skirting the industrial port of Brest. The Crozon Peninsula is known for rugged coastal hiking trails, stunning views and hidden villages. After a light supper of traditional Breton crèpes in the town of Crozon, we walked along the colorful harbor of Morgat and picked up coffee making supplies for the morning (the cottage had a lovely newly-renovated kitchen).

We wanted to see the sunset over the water but weren’t sure where on the peninsula would be the best spot. Thus ensued a rather mad dash around the western reaches and, hurrah, we found it in time!

On the drive there, through the town of Camaren-sur-Mer, we spotted a large field with many pre-historic megaliths, which are prevalent in Brittany.

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THE MENHIRS DE LAGATJAR AT CAMAREN-SUR-MER 

In the morning, we left fairly early to revisit Camaren-sur-Mer and its narrow medieval streets. We drove through and then went up the hill behind it, back to the megalithic stone monuments, called menhirs. It was cloudy at first but then, voilá, we had super light against dark clouds. David photographed me standing between the stones but, for those readers of Outlander, don’t worry, I didn’t disappear through them to the past! These stones are estimated to be nearly 5,000 years old. Megalithic sites have always fascinated me and I have visited many stone circles in England, mainland Scotland and the Outer Hebrides.

DOUARNENEZ

The next stop was Douanenez, a big port with hundreds of beautiful boats that sparkled even in the overcast light. But we parked and stopped along the water for coffee and really excellent baguette. 

LOCRONON

We drove east to Locronan, one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France, and unexpectedly arrived during the annual brocante. We weren’t expecting the crowds, so after a walk through the delightful main square and a peek inside the church, we decided to return another time. While it was fun to see the visitors and doggies enjoying themselves, we prefer a quieter atmosphere when first discovering a location.

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CONCARNEAU

We reached Concarneau, another good sized port town, just as it was threatening rain. We stopped at a waterside cafe “Le Cafe de l’Atlantic”, the rain held off and we  had another fabulous meal of fresh fish (David) and marinated seared ahi tuna (me), maybe the best I’ve ever had. And, of course, plenty of chips. Concarneau is definitely worth further exploration when we return.

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AR MEN DU HÔTEL, NEVEZ

For our final night, we stayed at the cottage on the grounds of the Ar Men Du hotel, which is also a gastronomy destination with restaurant and its own extensive herb garden.The Plage de Tahiti, a small rock and sand beach, with direct access from the cottage. There, we gathered polished rocks in the growing twilight with no sound but the gentle waves.

We had planned another beach walk in the morning but opted to simply enjoy the air and light from our terrace before departure.

Stopping for coffee at Pont Aven, a cute historic town on a sea inlet, we found they had no croissants so suffered through an indulgent local tart for breakfast. 

DOËLAN

We then embarked toward our final destination, one that I greatly anticipated. Doëlan, a petit and quintessential Bretagne port on sea inlet close to the border of Finistère and Morbihan, is so picture perfect that it hardly seems real. We drove the single lane road and then did a mini hike through the tiny lanes, ending at the farthest of the two lighthouses.

 We then had a most delicious “catch of the day” luncheon at Le Rive Gauche restaurant. No matter where we were in Brittany, every culinary experience proved to be excellent.

Our outdoor table overlooked the small harbor with a view of the houses opposite. David eyed the cute stone cottage as his future writing getaway (it actually was once the home of a famous writer).

We had a leisurely drive back through Morbihan to the station at Rennes, stopping briefly at the fortress city of Josselin. By dinner time, we were back in Paris with our beautiful coastal interlude settling in to a dreamy memory.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this tour around the magical land of Brittany.

With love,

G

(photos by Georgianna Lane and David Phillips)