Escape to Belle Île

I’m an enthusiastic believer in serendipity – those chance occurrences in life that unexpectedly result in something wonderful. And the happy, unplanned, innocent surprise of something serendipitous is what makes it magical.

One evening in early June, my dear friend Suzette and I were in my apartment in Paris discussing our plans for the summer. A fellow photographer and adventurer, she’d just arrived from California on an extended visit, as I was wrapping my latest book. The long months ahead beckoned in a tantalizing procession of possibility.

I casually put forth my long-held desire to visit Belle Île en Mer, a small French island off the coast of Brittany. Intrigued, she in turn mentioned her long-time friend, Frederique, who happened to own a house on the island. One thing followed another and before long, Suz had contacted Frederique, discovered that the house, by coincidence, was going to be empty until mid-August and that she was welcome to stay there for the duration. The invitation was graciously extended to me and thus, as another record heatwave approached in mid-July, I found myself thankfully departing the sweltering city for a breezy island getaway.

A change of trains from Paris brought me to the peninsula town of Quiberon, where I boarded a passenger ferry to the port of Sauzon, on the northern end of Belle Île. During the 40-minute crossing, I let the wind off the bow buffet my spirits, casting the pent up stresses of daily life to the elements.

Arriving in late evening, with the sun still well above the horizon, I disembarked at Sauzon’s tiny harbor, lined with pastel houses, pretty sailboats and the heady rush of sea air lifting my hair. Belle Île was more enchanting than I’d even imagined.

Frederique’s historic house is located right on the main quai – in summer a lively place with cafes, exceptional restaurants and the occasional late night revelers. Minutes after dropping my luggage, Suz and I were sipping wine under the lighthouse, marveling at our good fortune and Freddie’s greatly-appreciated generosity. A magical, serendipitous moment, indeed!

I was first captivated by images of Belle Île due to its resemblance to Scottish fishing villages and to Cornwall, both places that I adore. And that connection, in fact, turns out to be very accurate. Brittany is one of the six ancient Celtic realms, along with Cornwall, Ireland, the Isle of Man, Scotland and Wales. The cultural similarities are evident in the croft-like houses that are prevalent on Belle Île, the traditional music and many other fascinating aspects.

Evening in Sauzon.

The view from one of the windows in the house, from which I watched a breathtaking sunrise each morning.

Watch the slide show below to see the changing light each day that I photographed from the top floor skylight.

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AROUND THE ISLAND

Our visit coincided with one of the warmest stretches of weather in memory. Cerulean skies, balmy air and twilight that lingered past 10:30 pm created an idyllic, relaxed coastal atmosphere. Each day we set out on a mini-adventure, becoming more and more familiar with the landscape and hidden inlets.

After studying maps and some follow-up reconnaissance by car, we selected a semi-secluded sandy cove with warm tidal pools for our beach excursions. Located at Locmaria, at the far end of the island from Sauzon, it was still merely a short drive away, as the island is less than twelve miles long.

To this city-dwelling, globetrotting girl who hadn’t wiggled her toes in sand for ages, it was heaven! Chilly water, except in the sun-warmed tidal pools, deterred us from actual swimming but definitely not from splashing and wading. Truly, there is nothing more therapeutic than allowing the sea to scrub you clean, physically and mentally.

Quintessential French country charm, island style, is found on every street in each of the four main communities: Le Palais, Sauzon, Bangor and Locmaria.

Picturesque hay bales seemed strategically placed for the perfect photo op. We attended a world-class piano concert in this church in Bangor one evening.

Hydrangeas are literally everywhere!

The terrain is a mix of craggy cliffs and sheltered beaches washed with gentle surf. Above left, the “Needles” at Port-Coton which Monet painted numerous times during his extended stay on the island in 1886. Above right, the lighthouse at Pointes des Poulains.

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LE PALAIS

The largest town on the island, and main ferry port, is Le Palais. Only a ten-minute drive from Sauzon, it is worth an afternoon’s exploration. Colorful houses line the harbor and back streets and, at least in summer, it is buzzing with activity.

After the petit charm of Sauzon, though, I found Le Palais a bit crowded, noisy and touristy – most day visitors never venture beyond its cafes and shops. However, buses depart from a central location to all the regions of the island and cars, bicycles and scooters can be rented, so it’s quite easy to go further afield.

But I recommend the Sauzon area as a base.

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BACK TO SAUZON

Living in Sauzon like a local, witnessing the daily rhythms of sunrise and sunset, the mesmerizing and mysterious flow of the harbor tides, I soon fell under the spell of this unique refuge. Belle Île captured my heart and imagination, as she has inspired countless artists, musicians, writers, poets and thinkers for hundreds of years, offering a haven and respite, and a healing connection with the sea.

After just over a week of deep-breaths of salty air, meals of local specialties like Breton crepes, and lazy afternoon naps, my time on the island was ending. I’d been bestowed with, not the one or two day visit I’d considered in the past, but a fully immersive dive into a restorative pool of positive energy and beauty, for which I will be forever grateful.

And, after one’s first visit to Belle île, the question is not if you will return, but rather, when you return, if you will ever desire to leave again.

With love and gratitude to Freddie and Suzette,

xx

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Please note: This is by no means a comprehensive guide to Belle Île. Extensive information exists online for planning and booking your trip.